Apropos has 7 teak blocks that are used on the main and mizzen sheets. Somewhere between French Polynesia and Tonga, one of these blocks started coming apart. It was a teak double block with becket, used between the main boom and traveler.  When sailing downwind with the boom way out, the sheet running through this block puts pressure on the side of the block, and after 30 years of use, the teak began to split.  I found bits on the deck and was able to clamp it back together using 5200 marine adhesive, a short-term fix that lasted to Fiji. I carted the block with us back to Seattle to get it repaired since nowadays you can’t buy teak blocks like this at chandleries. I found a woodworker near Seattle and knew I had the right man when I went into his shop and there was a 23′ rowing sailboat that he was building. Although he never rebuilt a wooden block before, he had the woodworking skills and shop equipment to do it. Together we figured out how to disassemble the block into its components–a pin, 2 sheaves, 3 cheeks, inner and outer straps, and 4 swallows. As we took it apart, the teak cheeks and swallows broke apart and we realized they would all have to be replaced–a complete re-build.  We were able to salvage enough to use as patterns for shaping the new parts. When I returned a few days later, Mark had all the teak pieces shaped and ready for assembly. I brought with me a bronze welding rod that we used for the 4 pins that, along with the main pin, help hold the 3 cheeks together. After assembling and driving in the 4 bronze pins, I gave it a quick coat of teak oil and it was finished–good as new!

While at Marina Vallarta, we saw a lot of boat work being done to other boats on our dock, so I asked around and found someone who does teak deck work.  Apropos has all-teak decks and most of it is in good shape for a 33 year-old boat.  Built in Taiwan in 1982 when quality teak was in good supply and relatively inexpensive, the teak decks on Apropos still have plenty of thickness, thanks in part to not using a course bristle brush to scrub them.  Much of the teak caulking had been re-done during the refit in 2004 and is still in good condition, but all the panels on the coach-top still had the original caulk and showed signs of cracking with age.

I hired Misha, who makes a living taking care of large yachts for their owners, to re-caulk all the deck panels on the coach-top.  We agreed on an hourly rate (about 1/4th what it would cost back in Seattle) and he said he could start immediately.  He didn’t mind if I helped and I soon became an apprentice working alongside him for 3-1/2 days.  After removing deck hardware, deck boxes, the traveler, and anything else in the way, we began by removing the old caulk.  This is very labor intensive and involves using a utility knife to score both sides of the channel of caulk along the teak.  The channel is U-shaped and about 1/4″ deep, so a small amount of pressure is applied.  The caulking can then be removed using a handmade tool to help pull out the caulk.  Long strips can be removed by gently pulling on the caulk while using the tool to scape along the bottom of the channel.  The tool, similar to a reefing hook, was made from a flat screwdriver that was heated, bent, then shaped to a tapered point.  I ended up doing the majority of the caulk removal job while Misha followed with hand-sanding the channel to remove any leftover caulk for better adhesion of the new caulk, and masking the seams with blue 3M tape.  As I got more efficient, I would have another panel ready by the time Misha finished masking a panel http://blogs.asburyseminary.edu/blog/cialis-online.html.

There are 2 methods for re-caulking.  One is to mask only around the outside edge of the panel (where the fiberglass gel coat is), then apply the caulking (Teak Decking System SIS 440) to the channel and smooth it out with a putty knife.  After the caulking dries and cures in 48 hours, some of the excess caulking is cut away with a razor knife and then the entire panel is sanded until only the caulk in the channel remains.  The disadvantage of this method is that some of the teak gets sanded away.  The advantage is, as long as the teak is thick enough, it removes the ridges in old teak and leaves it nice and flat.  I decided to test this method on 3 of the small panels towards the bow.

The second method is what we ended up using on the majority of the teak panels.  It involves masking every seam so that only the channel is exposed, then applying the caulking and smoothing it with a putty knife.  After the caulking cures, the tape is carefully removed and the panel is sanded.  I did the masking of a few of the panels and realized how painstakingly a job it was, especially going around curves!  The extra time spent masking the teak in this method is about equal to the amount of time spent removing all the excess caulking in the other method.  But in the end, I believe masking every seam is the better approach http://enligneviagr...

After 3-1/2 days of hard labor and 22 tubes of caulk, the job was completed.  The coach-top panels are much smoother and the caulking came out great.   The final step was to re-bed all the hardware, deck boxes, and traveler back in place.

Most atolls in the South Pacific have surrounding coral reefs.  To safely get to the inner lagoon, you sometimes have to carefully steer through a narrow passage.  Charts may not be accurate so it’s always good to keep a good lookout whenever you’re near reefs.  Positioning yourself high up in the rig makes it easier to see the changes in water color to spot the reefs.  Ratlines are an age-old method for quickly climbing up rigging.  One method is to use a set of lower shrouds coming off the spreaders on the main mast to tie the ratlines to.  I used a combination of ratlines (3-strand rope) and ratboards (teak wood).  The rat boards help keep the shrouds from pulling inwards as they do when only using ratlines.  Two or three ratlines between ratboards seem to be a good combination.

Ratboards–The ratboards came from a 3″x3.5″x8′ stock of teak, which was ripped and cut to produce enough 1-1/4″x1-5/8″ ratboards for port and starboard.  A hole was drilled through each end and a groove was routed along the top, end, and bottom for lashing the boards to the shrouds.  Next I put on 2 coats of teak oil.  A bronze screw was used for added strength.  

I used #72 tarred seine twine for the lashing.  Riggers tape was wrapped around the shroud for a better grip.  The lashing started with a buntline hitch to the shroud, then a series of square lashings followed by figure-eight turns finished with a few half hitches.

Ratlines–The ratlines were made from 5/8″ 3-strand polyester (vintage style).  I spliced eyes in each end and lashed them to the shrouds.  A buntline hitch around the rope followed by square lashing as before, but this time finished off with frapping turns between the wire and the rope, and 2 half hitches.  I worked a figure-eight knot into the end up close to the last hitch to prevent the end from pulling out.

Port-side progress–Since a lot of this work can be done after we depart from Seattle, my goal was to get all the ratboards cut and have enough 3-strand rope to be able to finish port and starboard steps while in Mexico.  The progress I made on the port-side was 3 ratboards and a total of 7 ratlines.  I’ll add another 2 ratlines and 1 ratboard above the top ratboard shown below, then repeat everything on the starboard side.

Not all boat trip-preparations are serious!  Since we’re sailing half way around the world, I figured Apropos could use some protection from things like lightning strikes, pirates, sea monsters, and rogue waves.  So I placed a figure of Captain America atop the mizzen mast.

Since Captain America had flexible joints, the first thing I did was to make him non-flexible with some gorilla glue (forgetting that it expands about 10x as it hardens, but who’ll notice 40′ in the air).  That way he’ll stand upright in 30 knot winds.  I attached him to a small piece of teak then used 5200 adhesive to affix him to the masthead.

I’ll bet that no other sailboat sailing between Seattle and Australia with a Captain America on the mizzen mast has ever suffered from any of the above mentioned perils!

Preparing for our 14 month-long cruise has been a huge effort, and for me, a full-time job for the past 6 months.  During these months I installed a watermaker, outfitted Apropos with new sails, replaced the whisker stays, replaced 4 halyards, modified the autopilot to rudder post connection, had the fuel tanks polished, re-painted the bottom, changed all zincs, marked the anchor chain, and added more solar.   Over the past 2 months we rented out our condo and moved onto the boat, where we’re slowly getting things organized.  Deciding what to bring on the boat and where to store it isn’t easy (it was hard saying goodbye to my big-screen TV with surround sound!).  One good thing is that we’ve found some new, out of the way areas on the boat that make nice storage for small things that are not often needed (extra watermaker filters, spare parts, etc).

Bottom Paint and Survey This is always an exhausting 3-4 day job.  This time I hauled the boat out on a Friday, spent most of that day with a marine surveyor going over nearly every inch of the boat looking for any problems, defects, or issues.  The boatyard prepped the bottom by first pressure washing it, then power-sanding.  On Saturday we taped above the bottom line and all the thru-hulls, then rolled on the first coat of Cukote Biocide Antifouling paint.  On Sunday we applied the second coat, changed the zincs, and greased the feathering 3-blade MaxProp.  On Monday we applied a 3rd coat of paint at the waterline, and polished then waxed the entire hull.  The good news over these 4 days was that each day I had help from someone.  The bad news was that the weekend also coincided with the weekend we were packing up the condo, the weekend of my daughter Jacintha’s  birthday party, and the weekend of my other daughter Amanda’s ballet recital.  And to top it off, Jacintha got sick at camp on Monday and I had to run and pick her up, race back to the boatyard to finish the polishing and cleaning up before the 3pm haul-in and motor up the canal before the drawbridges stayed down for rush hour traffic! Despite the ultra-busy weekend, everything turned out nicely.  No major problems were found in the survey and Apropos is looking good with her darker green bottom!

Polishing the Fuel Tanks Apropos has 2 steel 60-gallon diesel tanks located under the port and starboard aft bunks.  When diesel fuel sits in tanks, condensation can occur especially if the tanks are not kept full.  Water from the condensation sinks to the bottom and living things called microbes grow.  These microbes make acidic deposits on the bottom of tanks that can actually eat away at a steel tank and create pinholes.  One remedy that works well is to treat the fuel with a biocide that kills the microbes (I do this whenever I add fuel to the tanks).  Even so, after so many years the bottom of a tank can get pretty dirty.  When going to sea, rough weather can stir up junk in the tank and clog fuel filters, killing the engine–usually at a time where you REALLY need the engine.  So as a precaution, I decided to have the tanks polished.  Here’s how it worked–a boat came to the marina, removed the 12″ access plates on top each tank, pumped out the diesel from both tanks and filtered it as it went into a barrel on their boat.  Next they used an industrial shop vac to remove all the sediment remaining in the tanks, then used a high pressure washer with 200 degree water to clean the tanks.  My tanks have a baffle in the middle to reduce sloshing, so they used a 90 degree fitting on the pressure wand to reach around the baffle.  After suction-drying the tanks, they inspected the bottoms for any sign of corrosion.  There were a few very minor pits at the low points of each tank, but nothing to worry about (for badly pitted tanks, they need to epoxy the bottoms).  Finally, they returned the diesel to the tanks, filtering it again as they pumped it back in. Now we can have some peace of mind when bouncing around in rough seas off the Washington/Oregon/California coasts.

Marking the Anchor Chain The main anchor on Apropos is a 60 lb CQR plow-type with 300′ of 3/8″ chain.  When anchoring, it’s important to know how much chain is out, so I like to mark the chain at 25′ intervals.  I do this with a combination of paint and colored zip ties.  The last time I did this was 8 years ago and the paint was still ok, but I thought I’d re-do it since we’ll be anchoring most of the time on the trip.  I lowered about 25′ of chain at a time into the water, then pulled it on the dock for marking.  I used 3 spray cans of Rustoleum paint–red, yellow, and blue.  The chain markings are observed as they come off the windlass gypsy and the code is as follows:

• yellow–anchor is just below the waterline
• 1st red (1 red zip tie)–25′
• 2nd red (2 red zip ties)–50′
• 3rd red (3 red zip ties)–75′
• yellow (1 yellow zip tie)–100′
• yellow/red (1 red zip tie)–125′
• yellow/red (2 red zip ties)–150′
• yellow/red (3 red zip ties)–175′
• blue (1 blue zip tie)–200′
• blue/red (1 red zip tie)–225′
• blue/red (2 red zip ties)–250′
• blue/red/yellow (3 red zip ties)–275′

Rudder Post Modification The wheel turns the rudder via gears, a large diameter stainless steel cable, and a quadrant.  The centerpoint of the quadrant is the rudder post.  If the gears or cable fail, steering with the wheel won’t work, but an emergency tiller fitted atop the rudder post will work.  The problem with the setup on Apropos was that there was less than a half inch of rudder post available to connect the collar on the tiller to.  This had to do with fitting the boat with an electrical autopilot, which has a electro-hydraulic ram that moves the quadrant.  The fix was to use ss washers as a spacer that stacks up to about 1.25″ to essentially lower the arm the ties the rudder post to the end of the autopilot ram.  Lower the arm by 1.25″ exposed that much more of the top of the rudder post for connecting the emergency tiller.  This was a simple fix in theory but made somewhat difficult by the cramped quarters inside the lazerette and the heavy-duty large fasteners (most wrench and socket sets end at 7/8″, this required a 1-1/8″).  And working from above, accessing things from the opened helm seat, was difficult.  But I had a 7 year old helper who I twice lowered down through the opening to retrieve a dropped washer and wrench!

Line splicing is an age old method of joining 2 lines or making an eye at the end of a line. Double braid 12-stand eye splicing involves separating the core from the cover and following a 10-step procedure. The only tools needed to make an eye splice are a fid (appropriately sized for the line), pusher-rod, marlin spike, and a needle and waxed thread for lock stitching the final splice. Lines on Apropos that have eye spices are used for halyards, topping lifts, lazy jacks, and dock lines. Below are pictures of the splicing procedure for a 5/16″ double braid line used for a topping lift.

Apropos has a lot of bronze and brass parts. The binnacle, 14 opening ports, sampson post caps, and cowl vent plates to name a few. When I bought the boat, EVERYTHING was polished, even the bronze traveller, cowl vent caps, horn cleats, and the rings around the deck prisms. Over the past 10 years I have kept the ports and binnacle polished. The thing about brass/bronze metals, is they begin tarnishing the second you finish polishing. During the summer, I found they stay shiny for a week or two. Any rain speeds up the tarnishing 10x. Salt water causes the metal to go from shiny to dull and green in a few hours. In the spring, when I remove the full boat cover, it would take me about 15 minutes per port, or a couple of hours to polish all the port rings to get them back to shiny. After that and throughout the summer, it would only take about 5 minutes per port. The more often you do it, the less time it takes to remove the tarnish. Over the years I experimented with different polishing products. What I found works best is Flitz Polishing Compound. I apply it by hand using rubber gloves and work it into the metal, then I use a nylon scrub pad to speed up the removal of tarnish (every year or so my mom makes these pads for me, they are the best–thanks mom!). After about 9 years of doing this, I discovered a product called ProtectaClear (www.protectaclear.com) by Everbright that claims to seal and stop the metal from oxidizing and tarnishing. I was skeptical at first, but another Hans Christian owner said it works well for interior and exterior parts. So last fall I decided to apply it to a few exterior brass and bronze parts to see how it would do over the winter. I polished and then applied 2 coats to the 12″ port in the cockpit which is bronze, the top part of the binnacle (brass), and the top of the samson post (brass). 7 months later they are all still shiny. I’ve since applied ProtectaClear to all the remaining ports as well as some interior parts such as the bronze sink faucet, a brass ships bell, and a brass trawler lamp. It also works on other metals such as aluminum and stainless steel. When I refinished a teak/aluminum dinghy engine mount, I removed the chipped paint from the aluminum, polished it, and applied 2 coats of ProtectaClear. Another good thing about ProtectaClear is that it’s self annealing, so you can apply a 2nd coat after the 1st coat dries in about an hour.
Shown below are before and after pictures of a bow port. This is 1 of 2 ports that I didn’t polish regularly because they are harder to reach and they constantly get wet when sailing (sometimes they are underwater when the boat heals over). So it took about 2 hours to remove years of tarnish using Flitz compound on a polishing ball connected to a drill. These 2 ports will be a good test to see how well and how long ProtectaClear works.

The new mainsail is being fitted with new slides made from 316 stainless that fit into a UHMW track (ultra-high molecular weight which is very strong and abrasion resistant) that slides into the original mast luff groove. This system by Tides Marine lowers the friction and makes it easier to raise and lower the mainsail. I installed the one-piece track by first cutting a new slot in the aluminum mast groove using a dremel tool with cutting discs. Next, the new track, which came in a big roll, was fed into the slot and slid all the way to the top of the mast. I had to remove the boom so there would be no angle when feeding the track up. This was an easy project that took about 3 hours.

New slot cut into mast groove>

Feeding new track up mast

New track in place