(This update is being done by SSB radio, so no pictures can be added until we get to Cabo San Lucas)
Apropos is currently anchored in Bahia Santa Maria, our 2nd stop along the Baja peninsula. The 1st stop was Turtle Bay, which was a 2-day sail from San Diego. It’s been a lot of fun with the Baja Ha Ha fleet–a beach party in Turtle Bay, trick or treating by dinghy to neighboring boats, paddle boarding, playing baseball with the locals, a party here in Santa Maria complete with a live band, and getting to know crew from some of the 140-boat Ha Ha fleet. The 1st leg to Turtle Bay was almost all motoring with very little wind but the 2nd leg was almost all sailing. Unfortunately our electric autopilot wasn’t working properly so we’ve been hand-steering during the 2nd leg https://advising.wisc.edu/facstaff/sites/all/libraries/d3/js/adobe-illustrator-cs6.html. We arrived into Bahia Santa Maria very tired at 5am, but had 2 full days to recover! The scenery here is amazing with a huge bay surrounded by some tall rocky peaks, mangroves, and sand dunes. I hiked up to the highest peak today which is at 2000′ and the view was fabulous (pics will follow when we find wifi in Cabo). Jacintha has been having fun playing on the beach with friends she has made and Karen has been relaxing on the beach (and helping other boaters with some minor medical issues).
We plan on an early 4am departure tomorrow morning for the 3rd leg of the Baja Ha Ha and will arrive in Cabo about 35 hours later.
We left Marina del Rey and sailed about 40 miles to Catalina Harbor on the rugged south-west coast of Catalina Island. Pulled in a small Striped Sea Bass using a hand line along the way and grilled it with some spices and olive oil for dinner. Mooring buoys here have bow and stern ties so they can pack a lot of boats into a small area. The water is crystal clear so we could see the bottom in 30’ of water. Ashore we walked a half mile across an isthmus to “Two Harbors”, which is on the north side, where there is a small general store (with ice cream), a restaurant, and a bar. Back at the boat after dark we were treated to a feeding frenzy of seals catching fish. We first noticed the splashes alongside the boat, so went up on deck with a spotlight and saw the small fish jumping out of the water just ahead of the seals. Was amazed at how fast swimmers they were in pursuit of their evening snack. With the water being so clear, we could shine the light on the seal and watch them dart around and under the boat chasing the fish. This continued until after we went to bed and every now and then I could feel the bump from a seal brushing against the hull while chasing fish.
Striped Sea Bass caught off Catalina IslandEntrance to Remote Catalina HarborCacti on Hike across IsthmusGathering on Two Harbors Beach
After 2 days in Catalina Harbor, we set sail for Avalon, about 25 miles away on the north-east coast of Catalina Island. Coincidentally on the way there, I read an article from the New York Times about the revival of Avalon in the past few years and how the town is trying to deal with emergency water shortages due to overbuilding. The marina is similar to Catalina Harbor, with mooring buoys having bow and stern ties to prevent swinging. When you enter the harbor, a patrol boat assigns you a mooring ball within a huge grid where boats are packed together about 15’ apart. The first thing we did was to finally unpack and inflate the dinghy, then row to shore for showers where we paid $4 for a 5 minute shower and were told we got there just before they reached their quota on how many shower tokens they can sell for the day! At the pizza restaurant they could not give us water in a glass due to water restrictions, but could sell us bottled water for just 50 cents (we later found out that was par for all the restaurants). Despite the severe water restrictions, we found Avalon to be a great place with lots of good food, shops, a grocery store, sandy beach, and just a nice atmosphere. On our second day at Avalon we had Mexican food for lunch, went swimming, got some groceries, and relaxed on the boat.
Avalon Harbor with Casino in backgroundAvalon HarborBeach at AvalonRelaxing on Boat Hammock
Part of our daily 2nd grade home-schooling (or boat-schooling) is for Jacintha to write in her journal, which I sometime add to the blog. She does 3 pages of math about every day and reads a lot. We also have discussions on things we see along the way (eg why a bronze sculpture tarnishes green) and she draws lots of pictures in her journal. She also writes post cards and sends emails to some of her friends.
Jacintha’s Blog (from Catalina Harbor): Lick, lick! I was licking ice cream. I had bubblegum, poppy had french vanilla, daddy had coconut pineapple. After that poppy went to a shop to buy me a fly swatter (we had flies on the boat!) while daddy and me went to the beach. At first me and daddy found cool rocks and shells. After that daddy had a nap while I got stuff to make a shop. I had explosions, sand cookies, shells, a rubber band, rocks, and sand crab skeletons. Then poppy came back and poppy and daddy bought stuff (from her shop).
Jacintha’s Blog (from Avalon): I was at the beach. First me and daddy saw an angel fish. After that I made a sandcastle, then went swimming. Then I went to a part where I could walk and there was a lot of seaweed and I tried to get seaweed stuck to my legs. After that I went fish searching and saw a school of big zebra fish right next to me.
Karen flew back to Seattle for a few weeks and my dad flew in to join us for a few weeks. We spent a couple days in Santa Barbara then sailed down the coast to Oxnard. The 34 mile sail in 15-20 knot winds on a broad reach was great. Oxnard is a gateway port to the Channel Islands and has lots of marinas and yacht clubs and beautiful weather. We’re staying at the Pacific Corinthian Yacht Club as guest members. We rented a 4-wheel bike and peddled to a grocery store to re-provision. Jacintha rode in the front while dad and I peddled (we had to get out and push on a steep upgrade!). The yacht club is very nice and has a pool so we decided to spend a few days here.
With the addition of an 80 year old, the average age aboard Apropos just went from 29 to 46!
Update–Jacintha spent most of the day Sunday in the pool with a bunch of kids celebrating a birthday. She even got invited to join them for cake, so she had a fantastic day. We watched the Seahawk game at the club then went to the boat for dinner (Dad brought some sauerkraut and corn from his garden in Pennsylvania).
Jacintha’s blog: Oxnard, CA. Yippy, I jump into the pool then I swam around and saw a little girl with the same goggles. After that I tried to stand on a noodle. It was fun because it was hard to stand on the skinny noodle in the water. Then the little girl noticed that we had the same goggles and we showed each other under water tricks. After that we went to the hot tub and I made another friend. After that a grownup who was at the party said cake time, then everyone except me ran over to get a slice of cake. I did not go cause I was not invited. After that my daddy came down, we sat in the edge of the hot tub until a grownup said we have extra cake so would you like some? Yes I said. So I went to sit down and eat cake. Once I was done, I played war. We had to throw things at each other. Water was a force field. You could use a boogie board for shields. Then we fake sneezed and I pretended to swallow a beach ball and sneezed it out. After that we put water in the hole of a noodle and blew. I sat on a noodle and got dunked, then I went to the hot tub and saw my friend.
A Double Crested Cormorant on the dockDinner with poppy on Stearns Wharf in Santa BarbaraOur Transportation in OxnardRe-Provisioning by bikeGoofing around with poppy (the red beak is the wax from cheese)Apropos in front of Pacific Corinthian Yacht ClubJacintha enjoying the pool at PCYCPlaying in pool at PCYCFollowed the Penn State vs Rutgers game on ESPN SportsCenter inside the PCYC
The passage from Port San Luis to Santa Barbara was over 100 miles, so we up-anchored at 8pm to time our arrival for mid-afternoon. The timing also worked out so we’d be rounding Point Conception at daybreak. After we got away from the harbor, we put out the sails and averaged over 6 knots with a comfortable 15 knot wind from astern. That worked well until we began rounding Point Arguello, about 10 miles north of Point Conception. I was about an hour into my watch which began at 3am and the wind picked up to 25 knots. We were sailing with a partially furled genoa and full mizzen sails. Gusts to 30 knots created a lot of weather helm on a broad reach and Apropos was screaming at 8 knots. Karen and I take turns sleeping in the port quarter berth and under those conditions it gets noisy with the wind and boat speed. Karen eventually came up and we furled the headsail in to about 50% and then tied a reef in the mizzen. Furling the genoa on a port tack under these conditions is difficult since the starboard winch is holding the sheet, so we have to run the furling line around a cleat to the stays’l winch to pull in the genoa. This made the boat handle much better–just in time for the wind to die down as we rounded Point Conception. Our sailing guide (Charlies Charts) call Point Conception the “Cape Horn of the west coast” because of the wind and waves, but this night it was peaceful and we fired up the engine as the wind dropped below 10 knots. We reached Santa Barbara at 3pm, refueled, then tied up to a dock in Santa Barbara marina. A Latitude 38 Cruising rally called the Ta-Ta was gathered in the marina and held a pre-daparture Bob Marley themed party at the Santa Barbara Yacht Club, where we had dinner (we finally got some mileage from our Sloop Tavern Yacht Club reciprocity!). We hit the showers, walked around the marina, then caught up on some much needed sleep.
A nice thing about rounding Point Conception is that it marks the northern boundary of Southern California weather! The water and air temperature increase by about 10 degrees and we can finally put away some of the 3-layers we’ve been wearing while sailing offshore.
Art classFinished!One of many oil platforms along the coastDolphins in our bow waveArriving into Santa Barbara marinaWalking on breakwater to small sandy beachBeach near Santa Barbara marinaStearns Wharf in Santa Barbara‘Cintha on the Santa Barbara Yacht Club beach
We departed Santa Cruz at 3pm and had a nice 5 hour sail to Monterey and tied up to transient moorage at the city dock.
Since it’s a long way to the next harbor, we departed Monterey at 4am and motored into a light southerly wind. The swell and chop were a little bit uncomfortable down below (see Jacintha’s post below) until we cleared a point and headed south-east along the Big Sur coast towards San Simeon. Since landfall was predicted to be around 10pm, we decided to keep going so we could reach Port San Luis at about 4am. The night-time run was comfortable with 5′ rollers hitting us from astern every 6 seconds. About every 5 minutes we’d get a few larger rollers that would boost our speed from 6 knots to 8 knots. Very peaceful but dark with no stars or moon. Karen and I took 3 hour shifts at the helm–she listened to Aretha Franklin and I had Jack Johnson on the cockpit speakers. The buoys and lights guided us into Port San Luis and we grabbed a mooring buoy at 4am. Jacintha woke us up 8am so we got up and called the harbor patrol and found out we were on a private buoy, so we moved to the anchorage area. We planned this extended 3-day stop because my son Brady is arriving into San Luis Obispo Friday evening to begin his freshman year at Cal Poly.
Our anchorage is right off Avila Beach and a free water taxi provides rides to either the marina or the pier off Avila Beach every 2 hours. We spent Thursday ashore near the marina (hot showers!) and Friday at Avila Beach. Brady just arrived via plane to SF, then bus to SLO Friday evening so we will see him on Saturday.
We began “boat-schooling” Jacintha a few days ago. She works on math problems from the Everyday Math workbook provided by Villa Academy, reads a lot (Ivy and Bean), and is keeping a journal. Here are her latest 2 entries in her journal, complete with illustrations:
San Francisco (by Jacintha)–we were at the boat on a dock, then daddy paddle boarded me to a shallow part near the beach, then I jumped into the water. It was cold but I stayed in the water, then I swam toward the beach until my tippy toes could touch sand, then I walked to the beach. Once the water was up to my shin, I bent down to pick up some yucky icky wet sand then I let it slowly drip to my other hand. This was fun because the sand was soooo drippy.
California (by Jacintha)–Bleah! I threw up on my sofa, then I went to the other side of the couch and slept. Zzzzzz. Then I woke up. I wasn’t comfy so I went to my room to change. After that I stood and threw up right on the floor outside my bedroom. At last daddy came inside and looked at me and then came closer to get a better look and stepped in my throwup with bare feet. Yep this was the weirdest day ever. (Jim’s comments–true story, and when I realized what I stepped in, she laughed at me!)
Recent Pictures:
Avila Beach BoardwalkAvila BeachSanta Cruz BoardwalkSanta Cruz Boardwalk (cowboy bottle is a stowaway that travels with us and will show up in various pics)Leaving San FranciscoFlying Penn State flag in Sausalito after victory over UCFFriends visiting us from SacramentoSunset in the PacificCollecting sand crabs on Avila Beach
Going under the Golden Gate Bridge to leave San Francisco was amazing. To think our next bridge will probably be Sydney Harbour Bridge, endearingly known as “The Coat Hanger”.
There was not much wind but a lot of large lumpy waves on our motoring trip to Santa Cruz. I got seasick a little ways out as the rollers hit us on aft and side making the boat yaw and rock at the same time. The scopolamine patch that I wore I put on too late and it wasn’t effective yet.
We saw large fish swimming in the surface of the ocean, lots of seagulls, seals popping up to sneak a peek at us. Weather was pleasantly sunny and we motored all the way as there was not much wind.
Arrived at Santa Cruz at 830pm and we could see the amusement park at the broadwalk all lit up and people on the roller coasters and other rides screaming.
We anchored in the bay near between the large pier and boat harbor. Unfortunately there were a few families of sea lions hanging out under the pier who barked all night and we could hear them from the boat. They were noisier than the screams from the amusement park.
In the morning we up anchored and drove to the visitors dock where we tied up for a few hours to explore the town. We visited the pier and had lunch there. The park was closed but Jacintha enjoyed playing in the arcade.
Jim had fond memories of Santa Cruz as he and his sister Karen did a bicycling road trip down the California coast!
We had a 3-day, 2-night passage from Crescent City to San Francisco. It was almost all motoring into a light southerly wind. Since we were down to a crew of 3 (Mike had to leave from Crescent City), we took 4 hour watches during the day and 3 hour during night. We rounded Cape Mendacino around midnight in lumpy seas with 7 second rollers from the NW (not bad since this cape can sometimes get very rough). The next day brought sunshine and light southerlies as we continued motoring south 5-10 miles off the coast. The final morning we rounded Pt. Reyes for the approach into San Francisco with a flood tide. After 980 nautical miles over 12 days since leaving Seattle, we motored under the Golden Gate Bridge in sunshine (and no fog)—definitely a memorable moment! The winds picked up in the bay so we couldn’t pass on the urge to raise the sails and sail around for a few hours. Went into San Francisco Municipal marina to dock, shower, relax, and celebrate the trip at The Monk’s Kettle with good beer and food.
Approaching the Golden Gate BridgeGolden Gate BridgeApropos passing under…In San Francisco BayCelebratory toast at The Monk’s Kettle in Haight Ashbury
We all earned our heavy weather sailing merit badges yesterday. Winds to 40 knots and seas in excess of 10 feet. Apropos surfed down steep waves at 9 knots. We sailed through the night in these conditions and pulled into Crescent City at 5:30am in thick fog. Exhausted but well pleased with Apropos in these conditions. Oh, and we saw whales!
We had some fuel issues that changed our plans today. We decided to pull into Coos Bay to fuel up. Motoring there now and should arrive around 11pm.
Fuel issue–no winds 55 miles off so we’ve been motoring all day. Around mid-day the engine started sputtering and a quick inspection showed the port side tank nearly empty and a clogged Racor diesel filter. I changed a valve position that corrected the problem and now both tanks are even again. We decided to pull in as a precaution, so nothing critical. We will fuel up in the morning and get back on track.
Other–had some dolphins swimming in our wake http://youtu.be/Qkz_Fhi4Lcc. Chef Risto is cooking up another fabulous dinner using the remaining tuna (they wouldn’t let me fish today!).