Sailing with Carol Hasse

Today we had the opportunity to sail with Carol Hasse, owner of Port Townsend Sails. She’s an amazing source of knowledge when it comes to offshore cruising sails. Back in September 2013 we first spoke with her about outfitting Apropos with new sails. My dad and I sailed the boat up to Port Townsend and spent about 6 hours with Carol taking all the measurements (she personally measures every boat). Around that time we were also adding a bimini to the boat, which required the mizzen boom to be raised about 13″. After the bimini was finished, Carol came to Seattle to take additional measurements for the mizzen sail. In the spring I sailed the boat back to Port Townsend with Lance and Carol (owners of Syrah, another Hans Christian) to bend on the sails. The 4 new sails include a 105% furling Genoa with foam luff, a hank-on Stays’l, a full-baton Main with double reefing, and a full-baton Mizzen with single reefing. The workmanship and quality of the sails are top-notch!photo-4

So, back to today’s sail. We had a nice breeze on Lake Union and had all 4 sails out. Carol gave us some good pointers on sail trim, how to properly read tell-tails, how to adjust sheet cars, how to set up a Cunningham on the boat to improve sail shape (leach), how to set up a soft Vang to improve sail shape (luff), and how to rig a preventer. During the 2 hours we did a lot of tacking with Karen at the helm and Carol and I working the sheets and going around to each sail and talking about sail-shape, halyard tensioning, sheet car positioning, etc. We also sailed under a partially furled Genoa and put the boat in a hove-to position by back-winding the headsails. Carol was very pleased with how the sails fit and also how the boat handled when properly trimmed with very little weather helm. We were so busy sailing and absorbing information, we didn’t get a chance to take many pictures!Carol Hasse

Carol inspecting Genoa
Carol inspecting the partially furled Genoa
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Wilderness Medicine Course

Being a health practitioner and in preparation for our upcoming offshore excursion I decided to “brush up” on some Wilderness Medicine.

The meeting was attended by a large variety of healthcare professionals from physicians, nurses and nurse practitioners to EMTS and medical students. The topics included Alpine and Travel medicine to search and rescue and fracture/dislocation reduction/immobilization plus a variety of hands on practical courses like knot tying, things for your medical kit.

There were also guest presentations from a variety of speakers for interest.

Dr Matt Oliva, an ophthalmologist presented his work with in Nepal with the Himalayan Eye Project. This organisation’s quest is to cure blindness with a simple cataract operation through training, mobile field hospitals and grassroots local clinics. The model has been so successful that they’re now implementing a similar model in Ethiopia. It was inspirational to watch videos of people who were previously blind for years when the bandages were taken off a day after their surgery. The pure joy on their faces when they realised they could see again and the dancing and celebration!

Dr Micheal van Rooyen talked about the Frontiers of Humanitarian Medicine, touching on the quest to eradicate malaria in the third world and the emergence of dengue fever as a new threat to those who live and visit the tropics. There is exciting emerging science in the field of mosquito borne diseases that will hopefully make a difference in the coming years to eradicate these diseases that cause a lot of morbidity and mortality.

Dr Karen van Hoesen talked about her expedition to Antarctica to test new SCUBA regulators under the polar ice cap. The photos were spectacular and amazing.

The things that I learnt from the meeting are as follows.

1. Dengue Fever is on the rise in the tropics. This is a mosquito borne disease causing a flu like illness of high fever and pain, often called breakbone fever” which can be debilitating. It is now prevalent in ALL areas tropical. For those exposed to it a number of times you are in danger of getting Dengue Hemorrhagic Fever which is also life threatening. There is no vaccination, no treatment and no cure for this disease. All that can be done is “supportive therapy” hence treating the symptoms.

An ounce of prevention is better than any cure. These mossies bite during the day as well as night! Wear long sleeve clothing, use lots of insect repellant, sleep under a net.

www.cdc.gov/Dengue/prevention/index

wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel/yellowbook/2014/chapter-2-the-pre-travel-consultation/protection-against-mosquitoes-ticks-and-other-insects-and-arthropods

2. Diarrhea is very common, you will get it and it will make you miserable but it won’t kill you.

Prevention is better than cure especially in underdeveloped countries where there may be feces in the soil etc. Purell doesn’t remove a lot of these bugs so carry some soap and water with you to wash your hands. Don’t use community soaps or towels. Boil/treat your drinking water and use this to brush your teeth as well.

wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel/yellowbook/2014/chapter-2-the-pre-travel-consultation/travelers-diarrhea

Pepto Bismol can help with the treatment of diarrhea and pull out the antibiotics only if it doesn’t get better or if you’re immunocompromised.  Loperamide for symptoms if needed. If you’re in South East Asia, Ciprofloxacin resistant Campylobacter is on the rise so you may need to take a different antibiotic there. Consult your medical practitioner.

3. I probably need some ear drops to prevent “swimmers ear” and for barotrauma from diving and some more ophthalmic drops for eye injuries and infections in my medical kit, which I didn’t think about.

4. A great refresher on how to reduce dislocations and simple fractures and the uses of SAM splints which i’m going to pack in my medical kit.

5. Safety pins and duct tape are useful improvisation tools for your medical kit.

Now I’m off to pack my Medical Kit.

 

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Other Sewing Projects

Before continuing on the Weather cloths, a batten had ripped a hole in the batten pocket and broken in two.

 

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I copied the shape of the sail pocket onto some new dacron that we got from Seattle Fabrics, new elastic for the bow end of the batten.  It was difficult getting the large main sail into the small arm of the sewing machine but we managed it. Also, the sailcloth is much more slippery and harder to sew than canvas. I finally managed to sew on the pocket. I did manually it using the monster wheel as it was easier to control than with electricity and i had to work on the deck of the boat as the sail was so large and difficult to maneuver.

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Jim purchased a new batten and shaped it and we inserted it into the pocket and manually sewed the end of the pocket up with my palm and needle.

I had some spare green canvas which I then made up into a ditty bag to put all my sewing stuff into. I found the pattern in the book “Canvas for Cruisers” by Julie Gifford http://www.boatcanvasbook.com/index.html . It is a really great resource book for sewing your own canvas. Between this book and the youtube videos put out by Sailrite.com it’s really easy to learn to sew canvas.

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Even Jim got into the act of sewing. Here he is learning to use the Beast and sewing a cover for the forward hatch. The biggest problem I have now is he likes to hog the Beast when he has a project to do as well.
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Splicing

Line splicing is an age old method of joining 2 lines or making an eye at the end of a line. Double braid 12-stand eye splicing involves separating the core from the cover and following a 10-step procedure. The only tools needed to make an eye splice are a fid (appropriately sized for the line), pusher-rod, marlin spike, and a needle and waxed thread for lock stitching the final splice. Lines on Apropos that have eye spices are used for halyards, topping lifts, lazy jacks, and dock lines. Below are pictures of the splicing procedure for a 5/16″ double braid line used for a topping lift.

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Metal Polishing

Apropos has a lot of bronze and brass parts. The binnacle, 14 opening ports, sampson post caps, and cowl vent plates to name a few. When I bought the boat, EVERYTHING was polished, even the bronze traveller, cowl vent caps, horn cleats, and the rings around the deck prisms. Over the past 10 years I have kept the ports and binnacle polished. The thing about brass/bronze metals, is they begin tarnishing the second you finish polishing. During the summer, I found they stay shiny for a week or two. Any rain speeds up the tarnishing 10x. Salt water causes the metal to go from shiny to dull and green in a few hours. In the spring, when I remove the full boat cover, it would take me about 15 minutes per port, or a couple of hours to polish all the port rings to get them back to shiny. After that and throughout the summer, it would only take about 5 minutes per port. The more often you do it, the less time it takes to remove the tarnish. Over the years I experimented with different polishing products. What I found works best is Flitz Polishing Compound. I apply it by hand using rubber gloves and work it into the metal, then I use a nylon scrub pad to speed up the removal of tarnish (every year or so my mom makes these pads for me, they are the best–thanks mom!). After about 9 years of doing this, I discovered a product called ProtectaClear (www.protectaclear.com) by Everbright that claims to seal and stop the metal from oxidizing and tarnishing. I was skeptical at first, but another Hans Christian owner said it works well for interior and exterior parts. So last fall I decided to apply it to a few exterior brass and bronze parts to see how it would do over the winter. I polished and then applied 2 coats to the 12″ port in the cockpit which is bronze, the top part of the binnacle (brass), and the top of the samson post (brass). 7 months later they are all still shiny. I’ve since applied ProtectaClear to all the remaining ports as well as some interior parts such as the bronze sink faucet, a brass ships bell, and a brass trawler lamp. It also works on other metals such as aluminum and stainless steel. When I refinished a teak/aluminum dinghy engine mount, I removed the chipped paint from the aluminum, polished it, and applied 2 coats of ProtectaClear. Another good thing about ProtectaClear is that it’s self annealing, so you can apply a 2nd coat after the 1st coat dries in about an hour.
Shown below are before and after pictures of a bow port. This is 1 of 2 ports that I didn’t polish regularly because they are harder to reach and they constantly get wet when sailing (sometimes they are underwater when the boat heals over). So it took about 2 hours to remove years of tarnish using Flitz compound on a polishing ball connected to a drill. These 2 ports will be a good test to see how well and how long ProtectaClear works.

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Running Rigging and Lazy Jacks

Running Rigging–After 10 years, the running rigging on Apropos was looking tired. I replaced the main halyard, mizzen halyard, drifter halyard, main and mizzen topping lifts, and jib halyard. I also added halyard clutches on both masts for line control.
Still to go are the jib sheets, stays’l sheets, and main sheet.

Lazy Jacks–Lazy Jacks help with lowering sails and are invaluable for short-handed crew. The lazy jacks keep the stack from falling all over the deck when flaking is not possible due to emergency situations or when sails need to be lowered quickly. I made my own lazy jacks after reading several articles from sailing magazines. I first made them for the mainsail, then copied the design with minor changes for the mizzen. Both designs use spreader mounted blocks, mast-mounted Spinlock cam cleats, 3/16″ AmSteel-grey line, stainless steel rings and eyestraps. The main was fitted with a 4-leg system and the mizzen a 3-leg system. They are easily deployed and stow against the mast when not in use. The AmSteel line and splicing to the ss rings minimize sail chafe.

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Track and Slide System

The new mainsail is being fitted with new slides made from 316 stainless that fit into a UHMW track (ultra-high molecular weight which is very strong and abrasion resistant) that slides into the original mast luff groove. This system by Tides Marine lowers the friction and makes it easier to raise and lower the mainsail. I installed the one-piece track by first cutting a new slot in the aluminum mast groove using a dremel tool with cutting discs. Next, the new track, which came in a big roll, was fed into the slot and slid all the way to the top of the mast. I had to remove the boom so there would be no angle when feeding the track up. This was an easy project that took about 3 hours.

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Canvas and Dodger Windows

Canvas–I washed and treated all the boat Sunbrella canvas. I have a ton of canvas–a full boat cover, 2 boom sail covers, a dodger, 2 deck box covers, helm seat cover, binnacle cover, 2 winch covers, 4 grab rail covers, 2 hatch covers, 2 stantion covers, and a BBQ cover. Most of the canvas is 10 years old but in pretty good shape, so they’re worth taking care of. The wash was done using Simple Green diluted to a medium strength and just a small amount of clorox cleanup. A light scrub with a stiff bristle brush helped remove some of the dirt and mildew. After rinsing and letting them dry well in the sun, I sprayed a waterproofing material on them using a small pump type garden sprayer. I used a product by Gold Eagle called 303 Fabric Guard that was given a best rating by Practical Sailor magazine and is endorsed by Sunbrella. It’s not cheap at $75/gal (and I went through 4 gallons!), but the results turned out great. After years in the Seattle rain, the canvas wasn’t repelling water like when it was new. Now the water beads up and runs right off. I’ll have to see how long it stays that way and decide how ofter to repeat the treatment. Shown below are photos of untreated canvas (top) and treated canvas (bottom) that were sprayed with water.

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Dodger Windows–The dodger was brand new when I bought the boat 10 years ago and is still in good shape. But the vinyl windows have become scratched and are not nearly as clear as they were 10 years ago, so I decided to replace them. I used double polished 40 mil vinyl by Regalite, which is the same as the original. The procedure was to first cut the new vinyl the same shape as the old. Next remove the outside stitching and trim back the old vinyl to the inside stitching. Then sew in the new vinyl with the outside stitch. Next remove the inside stitch which will allow the old vinyl to be completely removed. Finally sew the inside stitch and you’re done. This procedure ensures the dodger will keep the same shape when all done (removing the old vinyl first would make it nearly impossible to keep the dodger shape the same). The dodger consisted of 3 large forward facing windows and 2 small side windows. This project turned out to be very time consuming but we’re pleased with the results. Here’s a picture of the old and new vinyl:
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I also replaced the vinyl on the butterfly hatch cover. Here’s when it was half done showing the difference between the new (bottom) and old (top).

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New Bimini and Cockpit Enclosure

We decided to add a bimini for sun protection in the tropics and rain protection in the Pacific Northwest. Since we were able to see 2 of these installed on other Hans Christians and they were both Iverson designs, it was an easy decision to go with them. We also chose to have mesh-screen panels added to give the cockpit a full-enclosure. This also provides more shade from the sun while still allowing good visibility as well as air flow. The enclosure comes as 6 zip-on panels so various combinations can be used. A connector panel ties the bimini into our dodger. We made our own snap-on vinyl panels for keeping out the rain and wind. With the full enclosure and vinyl panels in place, the cockpit becomes an additional “room” during the winter months in Seattle. Even on a cold winter day, the sun warms the cockpit with the full enclosure in place.

Installation–I met the Iverson crew at the boat to go over the design. The biggest decision was the height of the bimini. The mizzen boom would need to be raised to allow clearance above the bimini AND I wanted the bimini high enough for me to be able to stand at the helm without ducking. This required me to move the boom up by about 13″. We also added a zipper onto the front edge of the dodger for the connector panel. This was all done before Iverson came back to begin building the bimini. They first built the custom stainless steel frame which they cut/bent/adjusted/installed on-site. Then they took measurements and returned a few weeks later with the canvas and mesh panels and everything fit perfectly.

Vinyl Panels–We decided to make our own vinyl panels. Instead of making separate panels to take the place of the mesh panels, we built the vinyl panes slightly small than the mesh panels and added snaps to make them easy to put on and take off. We used 30 mil vinyl and trimmed the edges with canvas. I did all the prep work (measuring, cutting, taping on the canvas binding) and Karen did all the sewing, using the “Beast”
(our Sailrite industrial-grade sewing machine). Then I took the 6 panels to the boat, removed the mesh panels, and hammered on the snaps. It was time consuming work but we were pleased with the results. Now I can sit in the cockpit playing guitar during a downpour!

Bimini and Full Enclosure w/ Vinyl Panels
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Single Side Band Radio

I bought the ICOM IC-802 SSB radio at the 2012 Seattle Boat show. The package came with an auto-tuner AT-140, a GAM split lead antenna, a KISS counterpoise, and an SCS Pactor III modem.

Installation–Figuring out where to place the components was an important first step. Since the radio itself could be tucked away, I built a shelf for it under the nav station chart table. The remote display fit along side the chartplotter at an angle for easy viewing and tuning. I mounted the speaker higher up in against the bulkhead. Since the tuner wants to be as close to the antenna as possible, I found a place inside the transom that would be only a few feet from the antenna. The GAM split lead antenna has a split tubing that was easy to slide up a long side-stay with zip ties used every few feet. Lastly, the KISS counterpoise was run from the tuner under the starboard bunk. The Pactor modem easily fit atop the radio making it easy to connect to a laptop at the nav station. This installation kept everything relatively close together on the starboard side. Power to the radio was run from the DC panel using #8 AWG wire and a 30A breaker.

Testing–It’s hard to really test the SSB on a lake in the middle of the city. Interference, weather, and atmospheric conditions come into play with transmitting and receiving signals. At the marina, I was able to receive signals from far away (different languages) but couldn’t really test my transmitting capability. I did notice strange things happened when I keyed the mic to transmit–lights dimmed and some breaker panel lights turned on. I read this is normal and signifies you are sending some high power signals out. More experimentation is needed when I’m outside the city in more open water.

Sailmail–Sailmail

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